Posts Tagged ‘Photography’

Some tips are placed here in a second post for the day due to not wanting them to be post in other posts. A few are mentioned in the video and others are sprinkled about.

Aperture Priority mode:

When bracketing around a base shot, whether auto or manual, it is best to get DOF as similar as possible. One good way to ensure this is to place the camera in the mode where the aperture has priority over other settings. Changing depth of field will give unreliable results when the images are put together in layers.

Focus – manual:

Using auto-focus to set the focus is fine, but once obtained, switch the camera (and the lens if required) to manual. Be sure not accidentally dump the focus ring.

Use a tripod:

Having a stable camera is very important. Some of the software is good at realigning, but the more you are able to keep various images framed the same, the more data is available for the image edge-to-edge.

Think ahead:

Look at your subject and think ahead to the end result. Doing so will help determine how many shots to get and what the EV gap should be. In general, the fewer images to be used in the result, the greater the EV will need to be. Too great though and information may be too spread.

Know your equipment:

Not only know your camera, also know the software you will use to great your HDR image. Know its limitations and strengths. Start with the latter and push to the former.

Have fun:

Throw out all the rules and do what you want. Have fun and experiment. Try staggered EV steps with gaps. Try -2 EV, 0 and +1. Explore the bounds and then cross over them with reckless abandon. Chart your own course; follow your own methods.

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In continuing the discussion about HDRI, attention is turned toward the two dark images that were chosen for the final product. Remember, these articles are not being written from well documented notes, but from the files in the auto-generated file name from PhotoMatix.

The base photo is heavily shifted to highlights, so more details need to be picked for the shadows. The outer two photos in the next two levels of bracketing (±1⅓ and ±2) provide this. The details for these photos are given. Remember, the base photo had EV at -⅓ due to overexposure tendencies of the camera and lens.

DSC_0034f/22, 1/4 sec, 48mm, EV -1⅔

DSC_0037f/22, 1/6 sec, 48mm, EV -2⅓

The next step will involve using the software to put it all together. Tone mapping is best started at a low end and moved toward more saturated.

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Rather than continue the discussion of HDRI being given many technical details and concepts, a walk-through seemed a better way. Featured is the path to the sample image in the first post.

The first step is creating an HDR image deciding how the end will look. What is the target? Colors or details? Depth of field? The end will determine the start. The first image to capture will be the middle. It will drive the rest. It will determine how much of shots must vary and which ones will be used in the final composition.

The subject in this image was slow water with the forest. Tree movement was a bit of a concern, but that day had very little wind. Due to the need of slow water, the 0 image had the following exposure settings: f/22, 5/8 sec, 48mm. Due to the nature of the Nikon D80 to slightly overexpose and the Tamron AF 28-80mm lens to do the same, the EV was set to -⅓ from the start. Camera was in Aperture Priority mode with automatic white balance.

The resulting image wasn’t too bad.

DSC_0032f/22, 5/8 sec, 48mm, EV -⅓

The water is well highlighted, but the shadows are missing any detail. The slight overexposed nature may also mean additional highlighting images are not necessary. The ±⅔ photos follow.

DSC_0031f/22, 1/3 sec, 48mm, EV -1

DSC_0033f/22, 1 sec, 48mm, EV ⅓

In part 2, the we’ll review the remaining chosen images.

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